Discover Madeira an island paradise of tropical forests and black beaches

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The island of Madeira

Pull up your maps app and pick a spot in the middle of the Atlantic ocean – not as far west as Bermuda but south of the Azores. It will take some zooming in to locate this tiny, volcanic island, but once you find it, you’ll never want to leave.

I had never been somewhere as remote as Madeira. Although it’s one of two autonomous regions of Portugal, the island has its own rich culture and a completely unique landscape of dramatic cliffs and botanical gardens.

But it wasn’t a smooth introduction to this island paradise.

Touching down at the main airport in Funchal, one of the shortest runways in the world, is not for the fainthearted. Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport (yes, Madeira is the birthplace of the famous footballer) is known for being dangerous – its 1,600 metre runway is cut short by high mountains and the sea.

The extreme gusts of wind created mean pilots have to take special training before being allowed to land here.

But after some turbulence and bonding over the adrenaline rush with those sitting near me, we make it onto the ground, only to be met by rigorous COVID checks (probably the reason Madeira has managed to remain on the Green list!).

What were COVID checks like at the airport?

Once you get through airport security and grab your luggage, you pull up your previously downloaded ‘Madeira Safe’ app which has your own personal barcode to show a team of officials.

At this point you get directed to either a light green or a dark green queue of people, with markings on the floor to show you the way.

Dark green means the app has processed your negative PCR fit-to-fly test (mine was from Qured) and you’re free to leave, but light green means the result hasn’t been accepted yet so you have to speak to a team of nurses. They inspect your app and ask for proof of either a double vaccination certificate or your PCR test before you can finally leave the airport.

Despite the slightly lengthy process, I found that I had a lot of respect for this thorough infrastructure as it made me feel safe and secure in a new country.

‘The best hotel on the island’

The smell of eucalyptus lingers in the air as we drive into the main town of Funchal, lush forests on one side and a vibrant city on the other. We arrive at the Savoy Palace hotel (‘the best hotel on the island’, my taxi driver exclaimed on the way there) late on a Friday night.

The taxi journey had given me a good overview of Funchal – lights glistening up into the hills and down into valleys, with the sea shining under the full moon. I certainly got a good first impression of Madeira.

The Savoy Palace Hotel is grand, with sumptuous interiors of chandeliers and marble staircases, yet cosy, with velvet armchairs and plants lining the windows.

The hotel was a joint venture between the island’s top designer, Nini Andrade Silva, and RH+ Architects, telling the story of Madeira’s traditions and culture through striking design.

After a light meal overlooking the pool by night, I happily collapse into my king-sized bed on the 16th floor.

Soaking in the panoramic views of the ocean, I fall asleep, ready to explore all the island had to offer.

Maeve Campbell www.euronews.com

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