Quarantining under the Northern Lights

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Last night’s surprise Northern Lights were breathtaking. The KP index showed low activity, and it was forecast to be quite cloudy. Yet, in the middle of the night, they appeared over Reykjavik, drowning out the sporadic street lights.

In Iceland right now, you need to do a Covid test on arrival, quarantine for five days (though you are allowed to go for solitary walks) and then do a second test before traveling freely. To many, this is a good reason not to come to Iceland just yet. After all, who wants to be stuck indoors for the first five days of your holiday? If you pick the proper quarantine friendly hotel, you could be treated to the Northern Lights each night, and tranquil nature walks each day. You will still need to wait until the quarantine is over before you can hike on a glacier or discover a blue ice cave. The vast open spaces in Iceland mean solitude can be experienced inside or outside your hotel room.

This quick rundown of just three spots in Iceland will celebrate the areas themselves. These places are ideal for their Northern Lights hunting as they are for quarantine friendly day time activities.

The locations

Anything more than a half day’s drive is a little unnecessary, and if you are paying for a private taxi, then it can be a bit expensive. All you should be trying to achieve with your quarantine hotel is that it’s away from street lights and has walking options nearby with picturesque scenery. I’ve picked my three favorite spots within proximity to the airport and capital city.

1. Reykjanes Peninsula (1 hour from the airport in most directions)
2. Snaefellsnes Peninsula (2.5 hours north of the airport)
3. South coast of Iceland (starts 1.5 hours east of the airport)

The Reykjanes Peninsula

This first area is arguably the best for your quarantine. Depending on where you choose to stay, you are merely minutes away from solitude. Once you finish your five-day quarantine, you are located near the world-famous Blue Lagoon, The LAVA Tunnel, and Reykjavik itself.

No matter where you choose to sleep, you will be surrounded by a barren, volcanic landscape.

Very different from any other holiday you may have taken in the past. The lava fields that have continuously flowed over this geothermally active part of the country have many hidden treasures to reveal on a walk. The multicolored rock types, sharp and jagged shapes, and the steam vents that you may encounter look more at home on Mars. You may even discover a few new lava caves far from the commercial versions that require paid entry.

To top it all off, you are treated to an unencumbered view, with the distant lights of the capital city not affect your chances of seeing the Northern Lights. Some of the best displays I’ve seen were in this area.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Don’t be fooled by the similar-sounding names. The Snaefellsnes Peninsula has its unique characteristics. Namely, glacier scarred mountains, broken sea cliffs, and black sand beaches to keep you amused during the day.

My thoughts on this area are to pick a spot as close to the shore as you can. Then the vertiginous walks along the sea cliffs with cracks and holes dotted around the path are right on your doorstep. To watch the turbulent waves smash against the rocks from the comfort of your hotel room is quite therapeutic as well.

Arnarstapi in the southwest of the peninsula is a particularly great spot. It boasts black sand beaches, moss-covered lava fields, basalt columned sea cliffs, and the acclaimed Snæfellsjökull volcano. This area is the setting of Jules Verne’s Journey to the Centre of the Earth. You will understand why when you acquaint yourself with the site.

 

South coast of Iceland

This ‘area’ is a little harder to define as it covers a 300km coastline. Two spots that might appeal a little more than others, though, is the tiny town of Hveragerði. This town is on top of one of the most geothermally active areas in the country and plays host to the famous Reykjadalur hot river and many other hot pools.

On a chilly day, natural steam can be seen from the utility hole covers on the street as much as in the mountains surrounding it. I’ll tell you this for free, watching the Northern Lights in your private hot pool with a locally brewed Icelandic beer is hard to beat.

Another spot I would potentially suggest is near the famous Skógafoss waterfall.

If you are a Game of Thrones, Vikings, or, more recently, a Eurovision fan, then this 200ft waterfall will be quite familiar to you. You might not know that this waterfall marks the start of the famous highland trail, Laugavegur. Within minutes of walking the 300 or so stairs to get above Skógafoss and you are greeted with another waterfall. You get my point. The view from this higher vantage point is incredible, too, with the active volcano, Eyjafjallajökull, being the backdrop for many of your walks. There are other hidden waterfalls like Kvernufoss, which you can even walk behind a little lower to the ground.

To top it all off, seeing the Northern Lights dancing above one of these waterfalls is quite spectacular.

Notable mentions

There you have it. If you plan to come to Iceland while this temporary restriction is in place, then I hope you’ll agree that you won’t get bored. Oh, and Iceland has 97% coverage for cell and internet service, so Netflix will still be available in between too.

A few spots I didn’t mention above are good alternatives, too but with a few caveats. The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the southeast is a fantastic place to hunt the Northern Lights. With icebergs clinking in the foreground and green rhythmic ribbons are floating in the background. It’s a little far away to travel on your first day, though (around 6 hours in good weather).

by Ryan Connolly

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